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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.